Cap-Vert : comment un peuple est-il né du métissage ? – Documentaire Voyage – AMP

Cap-Vert : comment un peuple est-il né du métissage ? – Documentaire Voyage – AMP

At the crossroads of Europe,
Africa and South America, this former Portuguese colony was
for four centuries an essential trading post for the slave trade. A painful past that has forged the soul of a people with multiple identities. Neither Europe nor Africa,
but Cape Verde, says a local saying. The 500,000 Cape Verdeans
are proud of this mix. It has shaped a unique culture:
music, arts and a sense of celebration have allowed
this people to develop a unique way of life. Between arid lands,
ancient craters and verdant mountains,
each island of the archipelago, with its distinct personality,
is the image of this extraordinary mix , like a rainbow country. Legend has it that after creating the universe,
God noticed that he still had little pieces of the world
on his fingertips. With a gesture, he shook his
hands to get rid of them. Soon after, ten islands appeared. This is how Cape Verde was born,
an almost forgotten paradise, lost in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. Santiago, the main island,
is also the largest. Praia, the country’s capital,
has a population of over 120,000. Santiago was the first
island to be populated. It is the cradle of the country,
where it all began. Mario Lucio, musician and writer,
is also a former Minister of Culture. Through his music,
he tells the story of Cape Verde and pays homage to his roots. Imagine a place where the Portuguese
arrived to settle, there was no one there. First, you have to build
a house, huts, etc. But immediately,
a fortress to defend these economic interests. There were many slaves here. So there was a
Portuguese domain that had to be defended. The Portuguese landed on these
virgin islands in the 15th century. Santiago then became a
hub of the triangular trade. They built Fort
São Filipe in 1593. The building served to protect their colony,
but above all the slave trade. In
some ways, the triangular slave trade made Cape Verde what it is
today. He killed a lot of things,
but he’s a Phoenix phenomenon. It is from the death
of others that we are born. Four million slaves, bound
for America, passed through the island. They came mainly from the
nearest coasts, those of Senegal and Guinea. This is where, for the first time
in human history, blacks and whites came together
in a violent way. So, we also had to solve the dilemma of how to live with two skins,
how to live between two languages, how to live between two cultures,
how to live between two cultures? How to live between two musics? Creole is a culture
based on deleme, because we have in the same skin,
the skin of the colonist and the slave at the same time. There is a part of my roots
that cannot be found because they are at the bottom of the ocean. If I look for my European roots,
we will find them until we reach Matuzalem. But if we look at my
grandmother who was a slave, who was cut off from her roots,
she arrived here as a slave. After that, she died,
we don’t know anything anymore. Everything is lost in the depths of the sea,
in the wind, in the dust of history. The archipelago has been enriched by contact with
all the influences that have shaped it. Cape Verdeans have very
diverse origins: Portuguese, African, but also French, English and Italian. Over the centuries,
a mixed population emerged and made this archipelago
the First Creole Nation. These islands are of volcanic origin. They emerged about 20
million years ago for the eastern islands and 8 million for the western ones. The climate is hot and dry,
with an average temperature of around 25 degrees year-round. Unlike the Caribbean islands,
they are relatively spared from hurricanes. Only a few sandstorms from
the Sahara occasionally hit Cape Verde in winter. In these arid lands,
we find flora specific to the dry forests of Africa,
as well as a large number of endemic species. When Portuguese settlers explored
these islands, they did not encounter any mammals. All those that can be seen today
were introduced by Europeans. The history of Cape Verde and its inhabitants
is inseparable from the slave trade and the Portuguese presence. These mountains have been
the scene of tragic episodes on several occasions. This is where
runaway slaves found refuge. They are the ancestors of those we
now call the Rabelados. They form a
separate community of nuns. Good morning. Good morning. Today we are going to talk about a
very important community. It emerged in our country. We are going to work on the rabelados. Have you heard about it? They are also called revealers,
because they believe they have a revelation. Does anyone know what
the word revelation means? Yes. The origin of the de la Dose dates back to the abolition of slavery in the 19th century. At that time,
Cape Verdean priests trained by missionaries mixed
Christian dogmas with animist rituals from Africa. In the 1940s, the Vatican,
which had somewhat forgotten the existence of Cape Verde, decided to
send its representatives there. He then discovered that the priests had
several wives and children, which could not be tolerated,
and imposed the reestablishment of the rules of celebration, customs
and religious teachings. While more than half of the population
accepts this return to order, the other half rejects this interference
and maintains its way of life. Having become pariahs,
they are hunted down, imprisoned and deported. Many flee to the mountains
and build a utopian society based on sharing and spiritual freedom. They will call themselves rabelados,
rebels in Creole. Even today,
the small village of Espigno-Branco preserves the memory of this exodus and their
independence from political and religious power. He survived, isolated from the world, until the country’s independence in 1975. Belmira was a child when her parents had to
flee repression in the 1960s. I am very proud to be Rabelade. I know what it’s like to be one. In fact, my uncle Fernando was
persecuted and imprisoned because he refused to give his name. When we didn’t want to give our name,
he threw insecticide bombs at us. We were tortured by having
our nails pulled out. When they wanted to release him,
he didn’t come out. He preferred to stay in prison. He said: I will not go out. I prefer to stay. The day freedom comes
from Christ, I will come out. But as long as it comes from my
persecutors, I will remain. We lived a life
of rebellion and resistance with our parents. We were raised like that. And I don’t want this
way of life to stop. Since then, the Rabelados have left
the mountains, but still live like their ancestors
in complete self-sufficiency, without running water or electricity. Several times a year, the villagers gather to attend litanies. The worship is based on the Old
Testament and the Gospels. It also draws on
more secular teachings such as lunar calendars and sometimes black magic. Ave Maria, hand of Goulas d’Arrosa, and the closing tone, and as a dress of peace. At the end of the ceremony,
the women kiss the cross to honor the Virgin Mary. They wore
white linen, a symbol of purity. These songs will last until early morning. While they continue to peacefully reject
the modern world, the Rabelados are gradually reconnecting with the outside world. This
opening was initiated by the Cape Verdean artist Misa Kouassi,
very popular in the archipelago. Misa was one of the first people
to become aware of the unique cultural heritage of the Rabelados. Eight years ago,
she managed to penetrate the very closed community of the village of Espignot-Branco
and gain the trust of its inhabitants. Since then,
Misa has introduced them to means of expression that were previously foreign to them. With them, she created
the Rabel Arté workshop. They’ve never had to see an art book. They never had to see a technique. They never had to watch TV. They had no influence. So it’s really something
that came out of free expression. So from there,
two or three months later, the real stories were born between
life in the mountains, between the culture, between the lands,
between the divinities. It is a whole world,
the world of orality, passed away with the transition of expression. Each painter deals with a subject that reflects
everyday life: work, singing, spirituality or prayer. Their works are rooted in the history
of the community and express a vision of the world defended
at the cost of the blood and tears of their ancestors. Steve is a wedding specialist. Joseph is witches
and mermaids. So what does it say? Where did they meet? To the sea.
To the sea. Legend has
it that mermaids appear in the eyes of the sea,
that they meet where there is a current. That’s what they say, anyway. When I was little, I heard
a lot of stories about mermaids. I always kept that in mind. I always paint mermaids
and also witches. It’s part of my world. I paint them often.
I feel good. I am happy when I paint
because it allows me to eat and dress myself thanks to painting. Painting is the only
teaching we have received. We learned to write our names. We didn’t go to school,
but that doesn’t bother me. Espinho-branco has become the first
artisanal village in Cape Verde. Since then, these young painters have been able to exhibit
in France, Portugal and Senegal. The sale of their painting helps the entire
village improve its daily life. Cape Verdean identity is constantly
evolving and constantly reinventing itself. In recent years,
most Cape Verdeans have made a sort of return to their roots,
to what some call their backbone, Africa. And it is through music and songs
that these origins are expressed. From a cultural and artistic point of view,
the heart of Cape Verde still beats to the rhythm of slavery. It is on these lands that
Batuk was invented. Batuk combines
music, song and dance. Fifteen kilometers from the capital,
in the village of São Pedro, there are almost only women and children. Men emigrated
to look for work. And very often,
they never came back. They are nicknamed the Widows with White Fouls, strong personalities, with a strong sense of humor. Today, nobody has pants. We’re all wearing skirts. As long as it’s not too windy. We are proud of our Batuk, because it is in our blood. I have known Batuk
since I was born. It comes from my grandmother,
my aunt, my mother. That’s why we love it. The only thing that will ever make us stop
batuk is death. But God has not yet called us back. As they say, batuk is
our strength, our soul. I feel a lot of emotion,
happiness, joy that I cannot explain. When you play, you lose track of time.
We forget everything. When we are together,
we forget all our worries. The worries of everyday life and even
the fact that we had a husband. The
Batuk lyrics tell stories of everyday life
and break the loneliness of these women. It was the slaves who brought with
them the rhythms and seeds of what would become batuk. Since they didn’t have any instruments,
they played in time with their hands. Repressed during the colonial era, the Batuk resisted in hiding. It has since become
a symbol of Cape Verdean identity. Santiago is said to
be the most African island. In the west, Fogot
has its roots somewhere in France. It was in 1918 that
a French aristocrat from Besançon, Armand de Montron, landed on this virgin island. He then stopped off in Cape Verde
on his journey to Brazil. He will never leave. The
story goes that he was wanted by the French police
after killing a man in a duel. Armand de Montron is said to have had up to
twelve wives and nearly thirty children here. Even today,
many inhabitants with very light eyes and skin are said to be
descendants of Armand de Montron. This land of fire that was his
resembles a piece of the moon that had been placed in the
middle of the Atlantic Ocean. A landscape of ashes as far as the eye can see. The entire island is
crater-shaped. It draws a huge circle more
than nine kilometers in diameter. Inside the crater are
steep cliffs about 800 meters high. The remains of an ancient volcano,
over 3 million years old. Fogot is home to the country’s most active volcano
, Grand Picault, which rises to 2,830 meters above sea level. It is also the
highest point in Cape Verde. Since the end of the 15th century,
it has erupted 30 times. The last one took place in 2014
and lasted more than 77 days. The
village of Txas d’Ascalderas, literally the Plain of Craters,
was then almost completely destroyed. Jose was born here. He experienced two eruptions and each time
the lava grazed his house. I’m used to this new landscape. I remember the village
Les Petits Coins very well , I still have that in my head. I never forgot that. In my eyes, there is
always this image. I am in this corner, the village,
and in the morning, when I woke up, I saw, I said to myself: The
villages were destroyed. It’s a dream. In 2014, I waited for the earth to shake. She shook more than 50 times. Until the eruption. Before the eruption, I
felt the air a little different, felt a really calm atmosphere. The lava poured down relentlessly. The residents managed to leave in time,
but hundreds of homes were destroyed. The main road that connected
the mainland to the rest of the island was cut off. Even today,
residents are rebuilding the houses that were submerged. People, they stay here. It’s a lifestyle choice. Here you live better. They even prefer to live here. Advise a small house
on the Ave flows, who live in another village. Even if I can I work elsewhere,
I sleep here in the crater. I love this landscape, I love all of it. The villagers are very attached
to this land, even though it is hostile. For them, the volcano is not
an enemy, but rather an ally. These multiple lava flows
fertilized the land of Fogot and made possible a diversified cultivation
of fruit trees and coffee. Vines have even been planted
at an altitude of 2,000 meters. Vines, including the first vines,
were brought by Armand de Montron. It is a truly volcanic land. The volcano as Roption,
the first thing that comes out is this. It is called puzzolana. The land is really fertile. We feel that there is
very humid breathing. There is the smell of sulfur too. Everything that plants here grows. The vineyard is still
a planting that I find really good because
we often plant beans, peas, cassava, farbes, everything. And with years, years,
and after the trees, they come dry, but the vine, never. There is this type of grape
that this vine also gives. I produced white, red,
white mouscatel and red mouscatel too. The vine grows in the ashes
of the volcano, without irrigation and in sandstone. Fogot is the only island
in Cape Verde with vineyards. The small quantity produced is
mainly consumed on site or in Praia. North of the Tierra del Fuego, Fogot,
a Garden of Eden, Santo Antao. Called the Western Island, the island is
the furthest from the African continent. It is known as the
country’s breadbasket. Cape Verde has experienced a
never-ending series of famines and droughts. The archipelago imports 80% of its food and must constantly develop strategies to grow crops
with very little water. Here, crops take root
in lush valleys. The island, which is the second largest
in the archipelago, is subject to two radically opposing climates. The south is dry and arid,
while the north, exposed to the trade winds, is humid. On this side,
it is crossed by numerous watercourses whose beds fill during the
rainy season, from July to October. Springs flow from
the tops of the mountains. You often have to travel several
kilometers to reach them. The
secret of Cape Verdean agriculture is the levadas,
agricultural irrigation canals designed by the Portuguese
in the 1950s. Kevin is 20 years old. He is the one we call in Creole
the mirindagua, the master of the waters. I’m
going to unblock the basin to irrigate the sugar cane fields,
banana trees, and all that. The water comes from a spring
at the top of the mountain and flows into this small pool. Every morning, I open the pool
from 7:00 to 10:00 a.m. to fill it. And in the afternoon, I close it. I have to manage the drainage. Here I plug to prevent water from
passing through and make it circulate to the bottom. I love my job. If it’s to get up early and stay
home, I’d rather come here and take care of the field. Getting up in the morning for no reason is
pointless. You have to get up for a specific purpose,
like irrigating, for example. I like doing that. I irrigate here, there, everywhere. The levadas run through the
terraced crops that have been patiently dug into the mountainside. The fruits and vegetables grown will be exported throughout the country. Lille produces papayas, mangoes, cassava, tomatoes and bananas. But the peasants live mainly
from the cultivation of sugar cane. It was introduced in the 15th century
by the Portuguese, who established this culture
in all the possessions of the kingdom. Sugar cane in Cape Verde
is a legacy of the colonial system, but for the inhabitants
today it is a means of survival on an island where the standard of living
is particularly low. We start at 7:00 a.m.
and finish at 3:00 p.m. It’s difficult, it’s hard work. Sugarcane leaves are very sharp. It’s like a blade. We have to
protect ourselves from head to toe. I like my job
and the environment in which I do it. On this side of the valley, the work is
to pull the sugar cane leaves. When you work here,
it’s more pleasant. It’s less hot than across the street. Cane tastes very sweet.
It’s sweet. Many people come through
here just to taste it. When we take a break from work,
we chew a small piece of cane, while enjoying a little grog. It’s very good. Sugarcane is mainly distilled to make grog,
a brandy that has become the national drink of the archipelago. Some distilleries in Santo Antao
still use production methods inherited from the
colonial era, such as the Trapich, a traditional mill. This press is said to be over 400 years old. Today, oxen
have replaced slaves. Making grog is quite simple. The sugar cane is crushed. The harvested juice will ferment
in vats for 24 hours. Then the cane wine
will be heated and distilled. The 2 million liters of grog
produced each year in Santo Antao are sold throughout Cape Verde. But it is on the neighboring island
of São Vicente that it is consumed most of the time. São Vicente is the second
most populated island in the archipelago. The majority of the population is concentrated in the port city of Mindello,
which has 70,000 inhabitants. Mindello is considered the
cultural capital of Cape Verde. But the city is best known for being
the birthplace of Morna, whose most famous performer is none
other than Cesaria Evora, the barefoot diva. Morna is a nostalgic
and plaintive music that often celebrates
exile and estrangement. If your cacréos vi Morna,
Muscaña of our terras. A cabo baibot chamli,
nes cabo verso avido. Our terraces, hand. Inspiration from our fleta,
precise to our serenata. The serene night of the ouar, The first artist I heard sing was Cesárea. I always loved
listening to him sing the Morna. It sparked in me a
special love for this kind of music. And also because it is part
of the roots of our lands. When you sing Morna,
everyone knows that it is part of the history of Cape Verde and
that it reflects certain situations in the lives of Cape Verdeans. Since Cesárea Évora’s death in 2011,
Cape Verdean artists have continued to claim her legacy. The city is nicknamed Little Brazil. And like it, Mindello also has its
carnival, which takes place once a year, on the occasion of Shrove Tuesday. For months, locals compete
in ingenuity to present the most beautiful procession. Hidden from view,
in the working-class district of Monte-Soségo, men are busy. Around thirty craftsmen are working
hard to build what will be everyone’s pride and joy: the tanks. They decided to honor
the great civilizations, a way of paying tribute
to the diversity of their origins. Three tanks will be built. They will symbolize Africa,
America and Asia. These immense polystyrene sculptures
were designed by Joao Martinho, the site manager. There has to be a good finish. We have to do something well-
designed so that it tells a story. You need to do in-depth research
on civilizations in books and on the Internet. But when you do some research, you realize the extraordinary richness of African culture. Mainly through
the different kings and their dynasties. We are a people born of slavery,
but we also had our kings. We had many kings in Africa. We need to take ownership of our history. Our first chariot will undoubtedly be
the African chariot, that of Mother Earth. Many people say we are inspired
by Brazil, but it’s different. Our carnival has its own identity,
reflecting our vision of the world. The day before the carnival,
Mindélo is in turmoil. In the streets, several groups
have already begun to march. The most popular and
impressive is undoubtedly that of the Mendguas. Every carnival,
they smear their bodies with oil and charcoal to make their
skin even shinier. Their name refers to the Manding,
a West African people from whom many Cape Verdeans are said to originate. As the streets come alive,
the queen of Monte-Soségo, who will bring glory and pride to her
neighborhood, is making her final fittings. This year she is played by Célia,
a young woman who currently lives in the Netherlands, but who was born
in the Monte-Soségo district. She is one of the 800,000 Cape Verdeans
who live outside the country. Like many of her compatriots, she
returned especially for the carnival. The Cape Verdean diaspora is almost
twice as large as the number of inhabitants of the archipelago. Over the centuries,
people fled famine and poverty and immigrated,
mainly to the United States and Europe. I am very proud to be Creole. Even though I don’t live here,
I take my culture with me wherever I go. Even abroad, I
always maintain a connection with my country. In what I cook, for example. I am very proud,
and in fact, the word pride is not strong enough, to express
how much I love my identity. I never say I’m Dutch
when asked. I always say that I am Creole. Moreover, in Holland
they rarely know where Cape Verde is. So I explain to them that it is part of Africa. The long-awaited day finally arrives. And there is a tradition
that the Montesot-Ségot district never approaches. Watch the tanks come out. This marks the beginning of the festivities. The first tank is a marvel. Or let’s say they
‘re all wonderful. But we wait for the others to
come out to see the others. But from what I see,
it looks very good. They did a good job. We need to be there to congratulate them
and make them aware of their wonderful work. After America and Asia,
it’s time to bring out the float representing Africa. Joao Martinho and his team
worked night and day to be ready. You can be proud of yourself. Come on, I’ll give you a hug. Come on, let’s do one
The procession sets off. The parade begins with the neighborhood anthem,
Monzu, the diminutive of Monte-Soségo. This pagan festival was introduced
by the Portuguese to Cape Verde, but also to Brazil in the 18th century. It has its origins in the
Entrudun festival, the Entrou’D’eau, an event that lasted
three days at the beginning of Lent and which consisted of throwing mud
or other nauseating liquids, eggs and flour on each other. Celebrated mainly by young people
and slaves, Entrudo aimed to caricature
the behavior of political and religious powers. His brutality and uncivilized manners
were suppressed by the authorities. However, the legislation was
poorly applied by the population. These customs disappeared at the end
of the 19th century to make way for music and costumes. Today, the Mindello Carnival is the most famous event in the archipelago. Its fame began in the middle of the 19th
century with the rise of the city. Thanks to the installation of a
coal depot that allowed steamboats to refuel, Sauvicente
became the richest island in Cape Verde. People from other islands
then come to the port of Mindello to find work and enjoy
the liveliness of the town. Mindello becomes a
multicultural and multilingual crossroads where Europeans and South Americans meet
to the rhythm of the ships passing by. Carnival is a synthesis of Emtrudo,
the great British balls and finally the rhythms and colors
of its big Brazilian brother. They reinvent themselves every year thanks
to the development of ever more sophisticated costumes and the choice
of themes close to current events. The processions continue
until the early hours of the morning. The
Mindello Carnival is a reflection of the country. It is a harmonious blend of
distant traditions borrowed from Africa and Europe. Cape Verde is all this and much more. A land at the end of the world, with a landscape
shaped by lava and the trade winds. We imagine this land to be
hostile and rough. Yet she is
welcoming and endearing. These inhabitants have been able to adapt through their
work and their strong convictions to these islands which have adopted them. According to legend,
the archipelago should have remained forever devoid of any human presence. But God was wrong
and the Cape Verdean people became the symbol of interbreeding and diversity. Cape Verde is a country of tolerance,
with indefinable charm, a warm and diverse nation,
a rainbow nation. More than a woman, more than a singer, our prato our coger, more of antigua hora, where canta apenas tchon, chon, sin bourgoggnas, sin censura, bu cutina pilan, de que par si nos cultures…

Le Cap-Vert, entre volcans et métissage, une identité créole unique au monde. ✋Les plus belles destinations, c’est ici 👉 https://bit.ly/2Vlfz9o 👈 Abonnez vous ! 🙏

00:00 Introduction – Le métissage du Cap-Vert
03:44 Histoire et traite négrière
05:42 Géographie et climat volcanique
07:13 Les Rabelados, communauté en résistance
13:28 L’art et la culture Rabelado
16:43 L’identité capverdienne et la musique Batou
20:41 L’île de Fogo et son volcan
27:16 Santo Antão, grenier du Cap-Vert
35:32 Mindelo, capitale culturelle et carnaval
47:49 Conclusion – Une nation arc-en-ciel

Explorer les yeux grands ouverts : Au large des côtes sénégalaises, dans l’océan Atlantique, l’archipel du Cap-Vert abrite dix îles marquées par leur aridité, leurs volcans en activité ou leurs plages luxuriantes bordées de sable noir.

C’est dans cette nature peu hospitalière que s’est noué à travers les siècles un métissage unique au monde, celui d’un peuple aux identités multiples : africaines, sud-américaines et européennes, fruit des anciens esclaves et des colons portugais.

Comme la physionomie de l’archipel, l’identité cap-verdienne s’appréhende par d’infinies touches de couleur.

👉 A voir également sur Voyage du Bout du Monde :
Gabon, sanctuaire de la biodiversité africaine https://youtu.be/OfecRKT89hw
Bénin, Mali, Madagascar : la vie autour des marchés https://youtu.be/ku7jBrs2FP4
CAP VERT : Un voyage entre îles sauvages, volcans et culture métissée https://youtu.be/aQKeLgMtVSE

“CAP-VERT – LES GRAINES DE L’ESPERANCE”
Un film d’Adèle Salmon
Droits réservés

#CapVert #DocumentaireVoyage #Afrique #CultureCréole #Volcans