文豪も愛した「若狭グジの酒蒸し」｜たん熊北店｜【日本料理】【和食】【ミシュラン】【4K】

文豪も愛した「若狭グジの酒蒸し」｜たん熊北店｜【日本料理】【和食】【ミシュラン】【4K】

I’m Kurisu, the third-generation owner of Tankumakitamise. Today, I would like to make sake-steamed tilefish. First, let’s take a look at the tilefish. This is a salted tilefish. The scales are not removed, but the bones are removed. Insert the little fin into the head so that it won’t lose its shape. There was a bone here, but we removed all of them including the fine bones. Tilefish are prepared in two ways, one by salting on the port and one by salting by ourselves. This one has been salted after it has been cleaned by ourselves. We use about 3% salt of the total fish weight. And we left this for more than an hour. Cam: Why should we salt it? Chef: Salting stabilizes the meat and makes it more firm. Also, salt makes the meat moister, so the flavor will be more concentrated. Now cut it into this size. Today, we will use this part for sake steaming. Let’s make one more slice to use. The scales are not removed yet. First, cut the fish with the scales using a knife. Cut it like this. Here, I have boiling water. We’re now putting the fish into this water to do some pre-cooking called “Shimofuri.” Before you start, make sure to prepare iced water next to it. The scales will start to get loose. Once they’re loosened, put the fish into the iced water immediately. So let’s start. Submerge it into the water. The scales are starting to get loose. After that, put the fish into the iced water. This removes all the fishy parts on the surface and the bloody parts on the underside. After cooling it well in the iced water, we can remove the scales. Because the gelatinous part hardens with iced water, the scales can be removed beautifully. You can’t touch it in the later process, so make sure to clean it well, and wash it under running water. Just like that. You can see that the color hasn’t changed much before removing the scales. Including this dark color at the top, pink at the middle, and yellow at the bottom. These are the colors of tilefish, so you have to keep them to make the fish look good when cooking. Cam: How is it different from removing the scales in the first place? Chef: Because tilefish is a soft fish, if you remove the scales by force, it can easily damage the flesh. So we usually remove the scales by “Sukibiki”. It is a method of removing scales by skimming only the scales with a sharp knife. If you just do it normally, all the pink and yellow parts will fall off and the fish gets all white. Tilefish are not supposed to be white, but it just turns all white that way. So we keep the scales on and cook the fish with them. Since they get loosened when it’s submerged in hot water, we can remove them while keeping the skin beautiful by putting them in iced water. That makes the fish look good when cooked. Put a kombu kelp in a container, and put the fish on the kelp. Here, we’re adding dashi. Today, we’re using the first-taken dashi of bonito and kombu. Here, add sake. Add about 10% of the amount of the dashi. Then, turn on the heat. Here, add salt and light soy sauce. Since the fish is already salted, be careful not to add too much salt. Since soy sauce is also quite strong in taste, make sure to not add too much of it. Now that the dashi is seasoned, we’ll add this hot dashi into the container. We’ll make the tilefish fully submerged in the dashi. Put a sushi mat on it. Then, put a piece of kitchen paper to prevent the steaming moisture to get inside. And put another sushi mat on it. Put this right into the steamer. Now it’s all set. Right now, the steamer is not yet filled with moisture. So start the timer for 12 minutes after you see moisture coming out of the steamer. After that, we take this out and put the other ingredients in it. Today, we’re combining it with tofu, yuba, and shiitake mushrooms. Something that takes on the flavor of delicious soup would be a good choice. The reason why tofu is often used in hot pots is that they absorb the soup flavor very well. The same goes for yuba. That’s why we’re adding these two. If you put them from the beginning, they will get overcooked. You only need to cook them for about 3 minutes. While we’re steaming it, you can fold up the yuba and make some decorative cuts on the other ingredients. Today, we already have the yuba tied with honewort, but you don’t necessarily have to do this. Because we’re a restaurant, we make these little touches to make them look as good as possible when they’re spread out. Cam: This time, you are using tilefish, but what other fish can we use at home? Chef: Well… I think you can use seabream or rosy seabass, and it would be delicious. Just make sure to salt it first. With sake-steaming, it’s important to salt it and leave it for 1 hour. Put the rest of the ingredients, and put it back into the steamer. And steam it again for 3 minutes. Cam: Is sandwiching the paper with 2 sushi mats to prevent it from falling off? Chef: This is just a normal steamer, so it wouldn’t fall off, but when steaming with a steam convection oven, because it generates wind, it blows off the paper on top. And that allows the steaming moisture to get in the dashi. So that’s why we use 2 sushi mats to hold the paper. It’s also easier to handle as it won’t get too hot to touch. It’s just for my convenience. But I think those kinds of things are also important. This is the sudachi to squeeze when it is served. You can cut it however you like. I think it’s easier to squeeze when it’s cut this way. Remove the seeds. And put it back like this. This way, you can keep the original shape but when you take it over, it splits in half. And it prevents it from drying out. If you enjoyed today’s video, please leave us a like and subscribe to our channel. We are also warming the bowl. Just put it together in the steamer and it will be warmed. Because it’s only steamed for a short time, the yuba is not too squishy. For the tofu, we use a tool of the exact size. Cam: Is that specifically for tofu? Chef: Not really, but it’s useful when putting small ingredients in a bowl. Now take the bowl warmed in the steamer. Put it together with the kombu kelp. So that it doesn’t fall apart. Now put the tofu. It is up to you to decide where to serve it. Now, we’re filtering the soup. Filter it with kitchen paper. Cam: Why do you have to filter it? Chef: Although I removed most of them, there are still some scales left in the soup. You can see the small scales in the soup here. This is something we can’t remove by hand, so we filter it through to remove them. Then we’ll check the taste again. If you feel it’s too weak, add a little light soy sauce. Adding soy sauce at this point will also enhance its flavor. The aroma of the soy sauce and sake is better brought out when they’re added at the end. After steaming so much, the alcohol of the sake we added has already gone out. So the sake we add here will make up the alcohol flavor. It’s an acquired taste. You can’t make the sake-steamed flavor without adding sake at the end. Of course, we don’t do this if we know the guest can’t drink. Lastly, we warm some greens of chrysanthemum to serve. Now it’s ready to eat. Serve with a little ponzu vinegar if you like. I prefer eating it as it is as the soup has a very good flavor. Enjoy. Taster: Thank you. Chef: Is it good? Taster: It’s delicious. Chef: It’s like I’m forcing you to say it! When I served this the other day, he said he would never forget the taste and would come back for more. He asked me to make whatever I’m most good at making. And he was very pleased. Cam: Was steaming tilefish more common back in the day? Chef: Yeah, like with turnips. You can make many variations by putting different things on top. But this sake-steaming is the base of all. Once you are good at sake-steaming, you can arrange it in many ways. Cam: How did you feel eating it? Taster: I feel fresh. I always look at it from the other side. I’ve never sat here before. Cam: I assume that you will be the one to make this in the future. Taster: I hope I can make it so that people will be pleased with it while keeping the tradition, but also challenging myself. Cam: Thank you very much. Cam: I noticed nice sounds of geta clogs, and you seem to wear very high clogs. Is there any reason for this? Chef: First of all, my feet get cold. When I work for a long time with my feet on the cold ground in Kyoto, I hurt my knees and back. So this is like walking with a small wooden floor to prevent it. So this is like walking with a small wooden floor to prevent it. Also, our legs are too short to reach the other side of the counter. I can only reach this much even with the clogs. We often need to take down empty bowls on the counter. And we need this height for doing that. One more thing is this cutting board. It’s very thick. We wouldn’t have needed clogs if we had used a thinner one. But having a thick cutting board allows our guests to see what we are doing. For example, we cut the bones of conger eels and slice tiger fish, seabream, and so on here. So we have it at a height where the guests can see it. Because this is how tall our stomach is, we can’t just use shoes. Well, you could adjust it if you really want, but if we think about the viewing from our guests, this will be the best height. At Tankumakitamise, you can choose and enjoy your favorite dishes while having a conversation. Please feel free to visit us. We look forward to serving you.

文豪の谷崎潤一郎氏が好んで召し上がったお料理でもあり、たん熊北店の自慢料理「グジの酒蒸し」の作り方公開です。

※最初の店舗紹介で、東京 河原町とありますが、京都 河原町の間違いです。
　訂正し、お詫び申し上げます。

料理王国が運営する、「プロの料理人から、美味しい料理を作る知識やコツが学べる料理専門チャンネル」

今回は、京都の木屋町に店を構える「たん熊北店 本店」の3代目当主、栗栖氏より、「若狭グジの酒蒸し」を紹介して頂きました。
料理王国2023年2月号（1月6日発売）で、同じくお店の名物料理である「すっぽんの丸鍋」と共に紹介されています。合わせて、是非ご覧ください。
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★チャプター
0:00　グジの下処理
5:16　蒸し方
11:06　酢橘の準備
12:11　盛り付け
13:50　スープの仕上げ
16:17　息子さんによる試食
18:25　オフショット

■分量
ぐじ鱗付きおろし身
引き上げ湯葉 2枚
豆腐 1/4丁
軸三つ葉 4本
すだち 適量
菊菜 適量
椎茸 4枚
出汁 800㏄

■この動画を見て頂いた方へのオススメ動画
★チャンネル内オススメ動画
・鯛アラ炊き｜嵐山熊彦
　前編：https://youtu.be/3nPpcJzDn4w
　後編：https://youtu.be/iHqiZ1yyxHk
・魚の煮付け 入門編｜初代割烹 高橋
　https://youtu.be/FvS-ut2hXDM
・野菜の炊き合わせ｜菊乃井
　https://youtu.be/mFriErgd3sQ

★他チャンネルオススメ動画
・エイの味噌漬け｜たん熊北店
　https://youtu.be/iFDe62GB2BM
・魚屋大将の鯛の酒蒸し
　https://youtu.be/i2WI418TZJg

◇たん熊北店 京都本店

京都本店

京都市中京区西木屋町四条上紙屋町355番地
・阪急「京都河原町駅」より徒歩2分
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営業時間
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17：30〜22：00（19：30ラストオーダー）
店休日：不定休（お店のHPに記載）

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＃酒蒸し＃たん熊北店＃レシピ