Mastering Panettone with Natural Lievito Madre (Grape Must Starter) – Hand-Kneaded Guide

Mastering Panettone with Natural Lievito Madre (Grape Must Starter) – Hand-Kneaded Guide

Hello! Today we’re making a panettone entirely by hand.
It’s a challenging process that takes time, patience, and strength but the results are absolutely worth it. Hope this recipe and technique bring you just as much success, now let’s get to work! We begin by refreshing the lievito madre.
This one originally started from grape must, but it has been maintained just
like a traditional lievito madre, fed only with water and flour. To wake it up after spending a few days in the fridge, 30 gr of starter are mixed with 30 ml of water and 80 gr of flour. Knead well until the dough becomes dense, uniform, and elastic. Once ready, it goes into a jar with a lid and rests for about 5 hours at room temperature. In my kitchen it’s around 22°C, which is perfect for activation, and it really came to life, becoming beautifully strong. After five hours, this is what the starter looks like. It looks as if it’s ready to use, but…for panettone, active isn’t enough.The acidity needs to be very low, almost unnoticeable. Since the aroma was still slightly sour, the lievito madre received another feeding: the entire amount mixed with 50 ml of water and 150 g of flour. After kneading again, it’s covered with plastic wrap and left overnight, around eight hours at room temperature, to strengthen even more. After 10 hours, this is what the starter looks like. It may seem ready to use, but for panettone, it needs to be even stronger and much less acidic. So it receives another refresh to bring it closer to that perfect balance of strength and sweetness. Once refreshed, the starter is kneaded until smooth and elastic again,
then wrapped and left to rest overnight. And finally, it’s ready to use – strong, sweet-smelling, and perfectly risen. Now it can create a truly wonderful panettone. ingredients for the first dough 100 g of starter 120 ml of water 220 g of flour and here the choice of flour really matters.
A strong flour with at least 13% protein is essential. I’m using Caputo Manitoba Oro, with 14% protein, which works beautifully. Then we need 85 g of sugar,
55 g of egg yolks — that’s about three yolks, and 80 g of butter.” Now let’s prepare the first dough. The lievito madre, water, and flour are mixed thoroughly until a smooth base forms. Next comes the sugar, added in two or three additions, mixing well after each one so it fully blends into the dough. As the sugar is added and the dough is worked, it becomes softer and more elastic. It’s very important to add each ingredient in the same order shown here, allowing the dough to develop properly at every step. The egg yolks follows. Also added in three stages, mixing each time until they’re completely absorbed. You can also use a spatula for mixing, wooden or metal, to keep your hands clean and avoid getting egg yolk all over them. It’s not a simple process, it’s actually very demanding, and it takes time and strength. But remember, if you have a stand mixer,
definitely use it. This demonstration is simply to show that making a real panettone by hand is possible. When the dough becomes fully homogenous, it’s time to add the butter letting each portion blend in before adding the next. Keep mixing until the dough turns glossy, smooth, and beautifully elastic. You can knead by hand if you prefer.
Just make sure the butter isn’t hard, cold, or frozen, this dough doesn’t require low temperatures. And if you’re wondering how my hand feels at this point? well, it feels like a stand mixer. But that’s part of the process.
long kneading is the second key to a successful panettone. Now that everything is fully mixed and incorporated, here’s how the dough looks. A few gentle stretches and folds help confirm the right texture. I transfer the dough into a clean bowl lightly greased with oil,
and place it inside the switched-off oven, it’s a bit warmer in there — and let it rest for at least 5 hours. How do we know the dough is well developed? It’s simple — it should double in size and feel soft and airy. Don’t worry if your dough doesn’t look like this after 5 hours. Just give it more time. If the temperature is lower, it may need up to eight hours to rise properly. ngredients for second Dough
100 gr. – flour 14 % protein
70 gr. – sugar
20 gr. – honey
1/2 teaspoon – vanilla
4 gr. – salt
55 gr. – egg yolks (3 yolks)
100 gr. butter The second dough starts with adding 100 grams of flour and kneading until it’s fully
incorporated and becomes smooth and homogenous At the beginning, it feels difficult, the dough is so light and airy
that the flour seems to blend in very slowly After about four minutes of intensive mixing, the flour is finally incorporated, and it’s time to move on to the next step. Next, the sugar is added
70 gr. in two stages, mixing well after each addition. Just like with the first dough, the second one will become softer Next comes the honey, 20 grams,
followed by half a teaspoon of vanilla and 4 grams of salt. Now the egg yolks are added, 55 gr. about three yolks one at a time, making sure each one is fully incorporated before adding the next The second dough will be much softer than the first. Don’t worry, it just needs more work until it becomes elastic and strong. Now it’s time for the final ingredient; the butter! One hundred grams, soft but not melted. Work the dough well until all the butter is fully incorporated! Place the dough onto your work surface and start kneading using stretching and slapping motions, or any kneading method that feels comfortable for you. What matters most is working it with all your strength! As you continue working it, the dough will first become softer and lighter in color. Then it slowly shifts to a deeper yellow, becoming more elastic, more compact, and much easier to handle. And here, my dear friends, comes the third and most important key to panettone: long, persistent kneading. At this stage, strong gluten development is essential, it’s what gives the dough its structure, elasticity, and the ability to hold all the butter and yolks without collapsing At the end, I’ll also show you what the panettone looks like when the kneading isn’t taken far enough. When the dough stretches like this,
no longer sticky and beautifully elastic, congratulations! you’re ready for success. Right after kneading, you won’t see a proper gluten window yet the dough needs about 30 minutes of rest before it develops While the dough is resting, prepare the baking mold.
I’m using a paper mold with a diameter of 17 cm and a height of 10 centimeters. And you’ll also need two metal skewers.
If you don’t have metal ones, wooden skewers, knitting needles, or even clean chopsticks work just as well for home baking. It’s time to shape the panettone.
Gently stretch the dough out on a lightly oiled surface. A well-kneaded, well-rested dough made with the right flour will stretch beautifully and show a perfect gluten window. The second dough doesn’t need to rise
it only needs to rest. Its rise will happen later, directly in the baking mold Now it’s time to add the filling, chocolate chips, dried fruits, nuts, or whatever you enjoy the most Then fold the filling into the dough, pressing gently, so it sinks in and spreads evenly throughout. Then rotate it in small circles, pulling it slightly toward , you to tighten the outer layer. This creates a round, compact loaf with a smooth, elastic surface, exactly what a panettone needs before going into the mold Cover the mold with a towel and place it in the unheated oven overnight, letting it rise anywhere from 10 to 14 hours. When the loaf reaches the top edge of the mold, it’s ready for baking. This is why it’s important to use the correct mold size. Preheat the oven to 165°C for a regular bake, or to about 150–155°C if you’re using convection with a fan A panettone of this size usually bakes in 50 to 60 minutes, but I recommend checking it at the 45-minute mark with a long skewer — if it comes out dry, it’s ready. For the most accurate result,
use a thermometer: the internal temperature should reach
94 to 96°C. Once it’s done, turn the panettone upside down and suspend it in a deep pot, a large bowl, or anything that can hold it safely. This step is essential! cooling it upside down prevents the soft interior from collapsing. A panettone usually needs at least 8 hours to cool completely.
After that, it’s ready to enjoy! A perfectly made panettone is light and airy, with long, silky strands inside that pull apart beautifully. The crumb is soft, elastic, and evenly filled with chocolate or fruit, while the top is golden, smooth, and gently domed. It stands tall, keeps its shape, and has that delicate aroma of butter, citrus, and vanilla. This is the moment you know all the time
and effort were truly worth it. The crumb is moist but never raw
that’s the magic of strong gluten, rich butter, and egg yolks, and of course our lievito madre
that brings everything together. And here is the panettone that didn’t turn out well because the dough wasn’t kneaded long enough. It’s dry and crumbly, it didn’t rise properly, and even though the flavor is good, the texture just isn’t what it should be. This panettone was kneaded with a stand mixer. Maybe I’m doing something wrong, but honestly, I prefer the one kneaded by hand. The results were much better for me. Thank you for joining me on this panettone journey. I hope this technique inspires you to create your own masterpiece at home. May your next bake be even better. Until next time!

This is a full, step-by-step tutorial on how to make a real Italian panettone at home — using a strong, active lievito madre, two dough stages, and long hand-kneading for that perfect silky, stretchy crumb.This method takes time and effort, but the result is absolutely worth it: a tall, soft, beautifully aromatic panettone with a moist, elastic interior.
Happy baking, and I hope this recipe brings you wonderful results!Feel free to subscribe or follow for more artisanal baking videos. ❤️
📦 FULL LIST — Perfect for Printing or Preparation
Total Ingredients Needed:
100 g lievito madre
→ 3.5 oz
320 g strong flour (13–14% protein)
→ 2 ½ cups
120 ml water
→ ½ cup
155 g sugar
→ about ⅔ cup (0.67 cup)
(equivalent to ~⅓ cup + 3 tbsp)
110 g egg yolks (approx. 6 yolks)
→ 6 yolks
(each yolk is ~18 g)
180 g butter, soft
→ ¾ cup butter (1½ sticks, or 12 tbsp)
20 g honey
→ 1 tablespoon
½ tsp vanilla
→ ½ teaspoon (same)
4 g salt
→ ¾ teaspoon
120–180 g filling of your choice
→ 1–1½ cups filling
(chocolate chips, candied orange peel, dried fruit, nuts)
🥣 1. FIRST DOUGH (Impasto 1)
Ingredients (EU + US)
100 g lievito madre
→ 3.5 oz
120 ml water
→ ½ cup
220 g strong flour (13–14% protein)
→ 1 ¾ cups
85 g sugar
→ ⅓ cup + 1 tbsp
55 g egg yolks (about 3 yolks)
→ 3 yolks
80 g butter (soft, not melted)
→ ⅓ cup (5.5 tbsp)

🥣 2. SECOND DOUGH (Impasto 2)
Ingredients (EU + US)
All of the first dough
100 g strong flour
→ ¾ cup
70 g sugar
→ ¼ cup + 1 tbsp
20 g honey
→ 1 tbsp
½ tsp vanilla
4 g salt
→ ¾ tsp
55 g egg yolks (about 3 yolks)
→ 3 yolks
100 g butter (soft)
→ 7 tbsp (just under ½ cup)
Filling (120–180 g total)
→ 1–1½ cups total
chocolate chips
candied orange peel
raisins
nuts
🔥 4. BAKING INSTRUCTIONS (EU + US temperatures)
Preheating:
Regular oven: 165°C → 330°F
Convection/Fan oven: 150–155°C → 300–310°F
Baking time:
50–60 minutes
Check at minute 45:
Use a long skewer → if it comes out dry, it’s ready.
For best accuracy:
Internal temperature must reach 94–96°C
→ 201–205°F
🔄 Cooling (essential!)
Insert metal or wooden skewers through the bottom of the panettone
Turn it upside down
Suspend it over a deep pot, large bowl, or between two chairs
Cool completely for at least 8 hours